Bourbon: Hirsch Selection Small Batch Reserve,
92 Proof
Distillery: Who knows? It’s sourced.
When it comes to Hirsch, Anchor Distilling Company is a Non-Distiller
Producer (“NDP”). And Anchor isn’t
telling. (Style points deduction.)
Cost: $35.99
Color:
Light amber.
Nose:
Smooth and
subtle.
Taste:
Balanced vanilla, cinnamon and caramel.
Finish:
Medium and very pleasant, but not complex.
Rating:
The older offerings with a Hirsch
label – the real thing labeled “A.H. Hirsch” and which you can’t find or afford – get
all of the attention. And so far as I
can tell, when the Hirsch Selection Small Batch Reserve does get attention, it
has ranged from lukewarm to outright pummeling, with the notable exception
being the recent review from my friends at Fork & Stave (which gave it a 3 out of 5; read it at Fork & Stave Review).
No doubt the Hirsch Selection Small
Batch Reserve can’t hold a candle to the fabled A.H. Hirsch 16-year and older
releases that I’ve only read about. It’s
simply not the same bourbon that was distilled in the spring of 1974 at the
Pennco Distillery in Schaefferstown, PA by Adolph Hirsch, a former Schenley
executive.
Many of the reviews that I’ve read
on Hirsch Selection Small Batch Reserve criticize it for not being up to par
with the older genuine A.H. Hirsch bourbons.
But what is? And should anyone really expect it to be
when Hirsch Selection Small Batch Reserve sells for about $35.00, compared to
the reported astronomical prices for whatever is left of the A.H. Hirsch? I can’t compare it to the A.H. Hirsch
bourbon, so hopefully my clean slate helps.
Or maybe Hirsch Selection Small
Batch Reserve is criticized because it’s from a NDP which happens to own a
famous name brand, and is trying to make a buck from heritage that it doesn’t
really have. Fair enough. (See the Old Pogue story from 100 years ago where this would have been considered
fraud.) But as many others have proven, sourced
bourbon can be awesome.
When you look at Hirsch Selection
Small Batch Reserve against its price-range peers, it’s a top-contender. It also, somewhat to my surprise, was the
unanimous favorite in the very first Sipp’n Corn blind tasting event when
paired with Four Roses Small Batch and Maker’s Mark, and it tied with Four
Roses Single Barrel in the second blind tasting event.
Overall, Hirsch Selection Small
Batch Reserve really strikes me as a beginner’s bourbon. Maybe that’s what some aficionados really
find offensive about it. It’s smooth,
very drinkable, and not overly complex.
There are plenty of other less expensive bourbons that new bourbon fans
should try (like Maker’s Mark, Four Roses “Yellow Label” and the terrific W.L.
Weller 12-Year, just to name a few), but Hirsch Selection Small Batch Reserve
is also a fine place to start, and it’s great to keep in your home bar for a
relaxing drink or for friends who don’t consider themselves bourbon fans (yet).
Score on The Sipp’n
Corn Scale: 3.5
The Sipp’n Corn Scale:
1 – Wouldn’t
even accept a free drink of it.
2 – Would
gladly drink it if someone else was buying.
3 – Glad to
include this in my bar.
4 – Excellent
bourbon. Worth the price and I’m sure to
always have it in my bar.
5 – Wow. I’ll search high and low to get another
bottle of this.