For this
Bourbon Review, I wanted to pay tribute to the recent trend of releasing barrel
strength bourbons, so we compared these three high-proof premium bourbons from
different distilleries, in order of blind tasting:
Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve
Distillery: Jim Beam, Clermont, Kentucky
Age: Nine Years
Proof: 120
Cost: $39.99
While not barrel strength, Knob
Creek Single Barrel is almost there,
and it otherwise fits the profile of the other two choices. Plus, in light of the extremely strong
following for the standard Knob Creek, I wanted to see how it fared with
another 10% ABV over the standard issue.
Barrel strength would have been 132.4 proof (according to my private
selection barrel), and I’m betting that soon we’ll see a true barrel strength
version of Knob Creek.
Elijah Craig 12 Year Barrel Strength
Distillery: Heaven Hill, Bardstown, Kentucky
Age: Twelve Years
Proof: 129.7
Cost: $54.99
The Elijah Craig 12 Year Barrel
Strength is the barrel proof version of the popular Elijah Craig 12 Year Small
Batch, distilled by Heaven Hill and named after one of the (or so the legend
goes) first Kentucky bourbon distillers who accidentally discovered the
benefits of using charred oak barrels. I
found my bottle at the new Evan Williams Bourbon Experience in downtown Louisville.
Stagg Jr.
Distillery: Buffalo Trace, Frankfort, Kentucky
Age: NAS, but the bottle claims “nearly a decade”
Proof: 134.4
Cost: $54.99
The Stagg Jr. Barrel Proof is an unfiltered
limited release from Buffalo Trace.
Stagg Jr. doesn’t need to include “barrel strength” in its name because
everyone knows that you’re getting it straight from the barrel. As “Jr.” indicates, this is not the acclaimed
George T. Stagg of the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection fame, but instead it is
meant to be a younger, “more accessible” version of GTS.
1st Glass (Knob Creek
Single Barrel):
The color of the first glass was on
the brown side of amber; definitely darker than typical bourbons. The high proof was evident in the nose, but
it was balanced by nuts and vanilla. The
high proof was also immediately evident in the taste, but after an initial
burn, extremely rich flavors of pepper, vanilla, oak and maple emerged. A splash of water or ice (highly recommended) helped reduce the
burn and helped open more nutty flavors.
The finish was robust and long.
Overall, the only thing that the first glass seemed to be missing was
some balance on the fruit side, but it was still an incredible in-your-face
experience.
2nd Glass (Elijah
Craig 12 Year Barrel Strength):
The second glass was darker in
color, pretty much passing the amber standard and embracing brown; it’s
dark. The nose was much more complex than
the first glass – blending caramel, oak and apple – with only a slight burn
from the high proof. But the taste blew
us away with more sweetness of caramel, vanilla and butterscotch, along with
pepper and cinnamon spice and hints of oak and almonds, with some slight dark
chocolate bitterness. The finish
featured these same flavors too, along with a hint of mint, and it was really
long and warm. Despite the high proof,
ethanol was never predominant in the nose or taste. Try this one sparingly neat for the
experience, but then drink it with a large ice cube.
3rd Glass (Stagg Jr.):
The third glass was not as dark as
the second, but was darker than the first (it looks darkest in the bottle
because of a black back label). The nose
was the hottest of the three, with alcohol burn, pepper and oak predominating, but
also with a hint of rich toffee. The
heat kicks you on the taste too; plan ahead to drink this one with ice and a
splash of water. Water and ice really
opened up bold flavors of oak and finally some vanilla, along with raisins, while
maintaining its spice. It was still hot
and lacked complexities that come with fruit and candy flavors, but this
bourbon clearly isn’t aiming at the sweet crowd. As expected from the nose and the taste, the
finish had extreme warmth reminding you that you’re experiencing pure bourbon.
Winner:
This was a challenge of some
heavy-hitters, not just because of the high proof, but because of the robust
flavors. Still, the Elijah Craig 12 Year
Barrel Strength was the unquestionable winner.
It had the best nose, we were stunned that it was drinkable neat (which
is questionable with the Knob Creek and highly inadvisable with the Stagg Jr.),
and it had the best balance of flavors.
You’ll remember this one for a long time.
Bottom Line:
None of these bourbons are for the timid or for mixing. I’m also sure that they all cure ancient
ailments, and they just might make you grow hair, maybe even in places you
don’t need it. But wow, they’re good. The quality of these three bourbons makes
them hard to rate, and it’s really hard to give Stagg Jr. third place, but
that’s where it lands. I’d be interested
to see how the BTAC George T. Stagg compares to the Elijah Craig 12 Year Barrel
Strength; I hear that big brother is pretty hard to top in this category.
All three are still recommended, but your real problem is
going to be finding anything except
the Knob Creek, so the Knob Creek Single Barrel warrants an immediate
purchase. The hardest to find will be
the Stagg Jr., and you might just leave that to the collectors who seem to
sniff it out fast. With just a little
luck, you’ll still be able to find the Elijah Craig 12 Year Barrel Strength,
and if you’re looking for a truly robust bourbon experience, buy it
quickly. I wish that I had bought two
when I had the chance.
Scores on The
Sipp’n Corn Scale
Stagg Jr.: 3.0
Knob Creek Single
Barrel: 4.0
Elijah Craig 12 Year
Barrel Strength: 4.5
The Sipp’n Corn Scale:
1 – Wouldn’t
even accept a free drink of it.
2 – Would gladly
drink it if someone else was buying.
3 – Glad to
include this in my bar.
4 – Excellent
bourbon. Worth the price and I’m sure to
always have it in my bar.
5 – Wow. I’ll search high and low to get another
bottle of this.
I have the ECBS batch 3 and the Stagg Jr batch 1. Both are excellent bourbons. I have not had the opportunity to sample the KCSB. Keep supplying the great reviews.
ReplyDeleteThanks! I just picked up the third batch 66.6 ABV and am looking forward to comparing it to the second batch.
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