The Bottled-In-Bond Act was passed
this week in 1897. But now, nearly 120
years later, is “Bottled in Bond” just an archaic designation? Does it ensure that your bourbon is better
than without the designation? Why doesn’t
every 100-proof bourbon carry this designation?
All good questions to ponder over a glass of “BIB” bourbon.
The Bottled-In-Bond Act of 1897 (29
Stat. 626, Comp. St. § 6070 et seq.)
was drafted to protect the public and to give assurances about the actual
spirits contained in a bottle. Among
other requirements, the Act required that any spirit labeled as
“Bottled-in-Bond” identify and be the product of one distiller at one
distillery during one distillation season, be aged in a federally-bonded
warehouse under federal governmental supervision for at least four years, have
no additives, be bottled at exactly 100 proof and be sealed with an engraved
strip stamp.
As noted in earlier posts (Kentucky Wasn't Big Enought for two Col. Taylors and E. H. Taylor, Jr. Review), Col. E. H. Taylor, Jr. was the driving force
behind the Act While Col. Taylor, George T. Stagg, and many
other Kentucky distillers were making true straight bourbon whiskey,
rectifiers, blenders and charlatans were blending neutral spirits (and
sometimes bourbon or other whiskey) with additives, and passing off these much
cheaper spirits as bourbon.
The Kentucky Court of Appeals, in E. H. Taylor, Jr. & Sons Co. v. Marion
E. Taylor, 27 Ky.L.Rptr., 124 Ky. 173, 85 S.W. 1085 (1905), noted the
difference between blended whiskey and straight bourbon:
Rectified
or blended whisky is known to the trade as “single-stamp whisky,” while bonded
whisky is known as “double-stamp goods.” The proof shows that the rectifiers or
blenders take a barrel of whisky, and draw off a large part of it, filling it
up with water, and then adding spirits or other chemicals to make it proof, and
give it age, bead, etc. The proof also
shows that from 50 to 75 percent of the whisky sold in the United States now is
blended whisky, and that a large part of the trade prefer it to the straight goods. It is a cheaper article, and there is
therefore a temptation to simulate the more expensive whisky.
Blenders and rectifiers could make their product in hours or
days, compared to the years of aging required for bourbon. Lower distillation costs, zero barreling and
aging costs, and the speed of getting their product to the market gave blenders
and rectifiers a tremendous competitive advantage. To make matters worse, no law prevented them from
still calling their product “bourbon.”
The real bourbon distillers
needed to protect their brands and profits, and the politically-acceptable way
to accomplish this was to sell it as a consumer-protection law. Not all blenders and rectifiers were bad, but
there were reports of hazardous additives, and consumers had a right to know
what was in their bottles.
So E. H. Taylor, Jr. – who was
himself an extremely well-connected politician – helped push through the
Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897 with the help of then U.S. Secretary of the
Treasury, John G. Carlisle (a former U.S. Congressman and Senator from Northern
Kentucky). Perhaps not coincidentally, the
second distillery built in 1880 next to the O.F.C. was named the Carlisle
Distillery.
As an added benefit to bourbon
distillers, they got a tax break.
Normally, distillers would pay taxes on the bourbon aging in their
warehouses, but under the Act, they would not pay taxes until it was bottled,
and only on what they bottled (thus avoiding taxation on the angel’s
share). The consumers received the
government’s solemn guarantee that the contents of the bottle was exactly as
stated on the label, and that there were no additives. As explained by the Sixth Circuit Court of
Appeals in W. A. Gaines & Co. v.
Turner-Looker Co., 204 F. 553 (6th Cir. 1913), this was not a guarantee of quality, but it was a guarantee of the
purity and authenticity of the contents.
Since 1901 (the first year BIB
bourbon was available; it had to age four years after passage of the Act in
1897), the restrictions have been loosened, but it took over eighty years. In the de-regulation climate of the 1980’s,
BIB no longer required a tax stamp with the season and year made and bottled,
so now brands no longer have to disclose the age. The current restrictions are found in the
Federal Regulations, requiring the contents to be a single type of spirit,
produced in the same distilling season by the same distiller at the same
distillery, aged at least four years, unaltered (except that filtration and
proofing is permitted), and proofed with pure water to exactly 100 proof. 27 C.F.R. § 5.42(b)(3).
Not all 100-proof bourbons meet
these criteria, so they’re not all labeled BIB.
Some that could seemingly meet the criteria (like Four Roses Single
Barrel or Rock Hill Farms) aren’t labeled BIB, but they certainly stand on their
own merits without any governmental assurances.
In the end, the BIB label doesn’t ensure that you’re buying good
bourbon, but it does tell you more information about what you’re drinking.
To celebrate the 117th anniversary this week of the Bottled-in-Bond Act, soon I’ll be posting the
results of the “Bottled in Bond Challenge,” which compared three BIB bourbons
in three price ranges – under $20, under $30 and under $40 – Old Grand-Dad
Bottled in Bond; Henry McKenna Single Barrel 10-Year Bottled in Bond; and E. H.
Taylor, Jr. Small Batch Bottled in Bond.
Stay tuned!
I think we should support and strengthen the Bottled in Bond act. I would love to see a return of the stamps.
ReplyDeleteHeaven Hill has really been the only producer that has embraced Bottled in Bond lately with multiple brands, and I think it has helped distinguish Heaven Hill. As more and more brands hit the market with unknown or questionable sources, or which might have undisclosed additives, I'm guessing that Bottled in Bond will make a broader resurgence.
DeleteIf I was a "craft" distiller, I would embrace the Bottled in Bond act. It really provides a road map to produce a high quality spirit. It is American Whiskey's answer to Single Malt Scotch Whisky.
DeleteI would too if I was a craft distiller, but I'm sure that I don't understand all of the financial pressures. I think we'll see a resurgence of BIB over the next few years.
DeleteUpdate: Rock Town Distillery of Little Rock, Arkansas has produced a BIB bourbon that has been aged a minimum of 4 years. It is getting rave reviews. Very good stuff.
DeleteYou are right BIB has enjoyed a mini-renaissance.
I'm hearing so many good things about Rock Town Distillery!
DeleteSeems like most of the BIB labels (w the exception of the EH Taylor line) have become "value" brands. And those are almost all legacy labels that have stood the test of time and consolidation. Not sure we will see a wider embrace of BIB, but I'm glad to have them around.
ReplyDeleteTrue, true. It may be a combination of more regulatory hoops plus it's difficult to produce a BIB Bourbon -- no blending with other ages, unaltered except water, etc. -- so there's no hiding. Add the barrel proof trend to the mix and it's no wonder that BIB is by far the minority. Thanks for reading!
DeleteIs this tax advantage still in effect for distillers producing Bottled in Bond bourbons today? -- "As an added benefit to bourbon distillers, they got a tax break. Normally, distillers would pay taxes on the bourbon aging in their warehouses, but under the Act, they would not pay taxes until it was bottled, and only on what they bottled (thus avoiding taxation on the angel’s share)."
ReplyDelete