Noah’s Mill is the highest-proof
and highest-shelf brand member of Willett’s “Small Batch Boutique Bourbon
Collection,” which also includes Kentucky Vintage, Pure Kentucky, and Rowan’s
Creek. Before the Bourbon craze it was
aged for 15 years, and while it lost that minimum age, most everyone except the
age-statement purists agree that it has retained its high quality. One distinguishing characteristic of Noah’s
Mill is that it traditionally blended Bourbon using rye as the secondary grain with
Bourbon using wheat as the secondary grain, although this four-grain approach
may have ended recently.
Another interesting side-note is
that Noah’s Mill is not labeled as “Straight” Bourbon Whiskey, instead using just
“Bourbon Whiskey.” Being able to use the
word “Straight” is a badge of honor that every producer should use if it can do
so legally. Straight Bourbon Whiskey
must first meet the federal regulations to be called “Bourbon”: “whisky produced at not exceeding 160 proof
from a fermented mash of not less than 51 percent corn, … and stored at not
more than 125 proof in charred new oak containers…”, and bottled at no less
than 40 percent ABV. 27 CFR § 5.22(b)(1);
27 CFR § 5.22(b).
Then, in addition, Bourbon “shall
be further designated as ‘straight’” if it was “stored in the type of oak
containers prescribed for a period of two years or more.” 27 CFR § 5.22(b)(1)(iii). Under another federal regulation and TTB
interpretation, no flavoring or coloring additives can be added to Bourbon or
Straight Bourbon. 27 CFR
§ 5.23(a)(2).
A whiskey that is “Straight” can only include blends of straight
whiskies of the same type produced in the same state. 27 CFR § 5.22(b)(1)(iii). Of course, an age statement is optional for
any Straight Bourbon Whiskey that is at least four years old. 27 CFR § 5.40(a).
The folks at Willett confirmed for
me that Noah’s Mill qualifies as “Straight” Bourbon Whiskey but that it’s just
not on the label. Personally, I’d want
to include this guarantee of compliance and purity, but the quality coming out
of Willett is undeniable, and they’ve been successful, so I’ll just leave this
as my 2 cents and defer to Drew and his family.
Bourbon:
|
Noah’s Mill Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey
Batch QBC 13-117
Batch QBC 15-11
Batch QBC 15-18
|
Distillery:
|
Undisclosed, but bottled by “Noah’s Mill Distilling
Company,” which is an assumed name of Kentucky Bourbon Distillers, Ltd.
(Willett), Bardstown, Kentucky, DSP-KY-78
|
Age:
|
No age statement, so the youngest Bourbon is guaranteed to
be at least four years old.
|
ABV:
|
57.15% (114.3 proof)
|
Cost:
|
Usually around $50.00
|
Tasting Notes
Appearance:
Golden amber with a red hue in the light. The 2013 batch was slightly darker.
Nose:
Great aromas with a fair warning of the high proof. Each of the three had distinct noses; 15-18
was the sharpest and most floral with candy sweetness, 15-11 was mellow with
dark fruit and old barn, and 13-117 was more on the earthy side with old oak
and cocoa.
Taste:
The high proof is somewhat masked by the complexity and the
warm flavors like vanilla, toffee, and cocoa, transitioning to cinnamon,
pepper, and oak. Again, each batch had
its distinguishing characteristics but overall similarities. For instance, 15-11 has a fantastic malted
chocolate note that was not in Batch 15-18, where it was replaced with more intense
spice, corn grain, and cherry. Batch
13-117, on the other hand, was the creamiest of the three, with mellow flavors
of honey, dark cherry, plum, espresso, and rich caramel. They all took a splash of water or ice very
well.
Finish:
Great swelling, warming, oaky finishes with all of these
batches. Batch 15-11 had an oaky/caramel
balance with a mint kicker. After a
quick burst of sugary candy on the finish, 15-18 gives way to pepper spice and
oak. And I really enjoyed the long, slow
burn of 13-117 that harkened back to its earthy aromas and swell of rye spice.
Bottom Line
Noah’s Mill provides a lush, well-rounded
Bourbon with distinct batch characteristics, but all in the same family. It might be too hot for some people, but a
splash of water or ice will both drop the ABV and the heat to a range that will
appeal to a broader audience without sacrificing any of the flavor. I highly recommend Noah’s Mill.
Score on The
Sipp’n Corn Scale: 3.5
The Sipp’n Corn Scale:
1 – Swill. I might dump the bottle, but will probably
save it for my guests who mix with Coke.
2 – Hits the minimum
criteria, but given a choice, I’d rather have something else.
3 – Solid Bourbon
with only minor shortcomings. Glad to
own and enjoy.
4 – Excellent
Bourbon. Need to be hyper-critical to
find flaws. I’m lucky to have this.
5 – Bourbon
perfection. I’ll search high and low to
get another bottle of this.
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