I was inspired to review these
after attending a Smooth Ambler tasting in September with John Foster, Director
of Sales and Distiller at Smooth Ambler in Maxwelton, West Virginia. He was a breath of fresh air in the often
secretive and sometimes deceitful world of sourced whiskey, or, as Smooth
Ambler calls it, “merchant bottling.” John
took us through a tasting of Smooth Ambler Yearling, a 1.5 year old wheated
Bourbon, a 7 year old high-rye Bourbon sourced from MGP, a 10 year old low-rye
Bourbon sourced from MGP, a 7 year old rye whiskey sourced from MGP, along with
vodka, gin and a barrel-aged gin. To top
off all of those, John pulled out a sample bottle of the highly-anticipated “Contradiction,”
a blend of 73% of 9 year old MGP high-rye bourbon with 27% of Smooth Ambler’s 2.5
year old wheated Bourbon.
Smooth Ambler started with the goal
of distilling and selling vodka and gin while waiting for its Bourbon to
age. Realities of business, however, led
Smooth Ambler to also become a non-distiller producer (“NDP”) for some of its
current product line. So unlike many NDPs
who don’t distill a drop, Smooth Ambler is busy both distilling and aging its
own product, as well as sourcing Bourbon from MGP in Lawrenceburg,
Indiana. Many small craft distillers
simultaneously sell sourced and produced spirits, but Smooth Ambler is
different because of its scale, perhaps only being topped by Willett among brands
that both distill and source (Willett just got there in the reverse direction).
Smooth Ambler is also honest about
the contents and provenance of its Bourbon.
Smooth Ambler freely discloses and distinguishes between what they
distill and what they source. There are
no secrets about the mash bills and there’s no pretending that they found their
pre-Prohibition family recipe.
I had picked up bottles of the
7-year and 10-year this past summer in Michigan (which by their batch numbers
and bottling dates appear to have sat on the shelf for a year), but I hadn’t
opened either one yet. I enjoyed the
tasting so much that I picked up the eight-year Single Barrel that night, and I
decided that it was high time to put them to the test. I like the proof of these three options, I
like that they’re not chill-filtered, and I like that they’re in a sweet spot
for aging. With all of these things done
right, let’s just hope that the Bourbon passes muster.
Here are the three, ordered by
proof:
Smooth Ambler Old Scout 7-year Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Distillery: Sourced from MGP; Batch 30 bottled 5-29-2013
Mash Bill: 60% corn; 36% rye; 4% malted barley (MGP
high-rye recipe)
Age: 7 years
Proof: 99
Cost: $41.99
The color is deep copper trending
toward light brown. The nose is strong
on rye and black pepper spice, but is balanced with caramel, slight oak, and a
little mint. The nose has great subtle
flavors and is really pleasant. Caramel
and vanilla sweetness are the first tastes, but that quickly transitions to nice
blast of rye, tea and pepper. Right away
you can tell that this is a remarkable Bourbon. The medium-length finish is very warm, dry and
lingering.
Smooth Ambler Old Scout 10-year Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Distillery: Sourced from MGP; Batch 4 bottled 6-10-2013
Mash Bill: 75% corn; 21% rye; 4% malted barley (MGP
low-rye recipe)
Age: 10 years
Proof: 100
Cost: $56.99
Interestingly, the color isn’t any
different than the 7-year, which I expected given the extra time and lack of
chill filtering for either. The most noticeable
differences in the nose include clear oak and corn sweetness replacing the rye
spice, but it also had nuanced scents of clove, pear, honey and an old empty
tobacco barn. My first taste seemed a
little hotter than 100 proof, but the heat mellowed to warmth with a little
air. The taste also has buttered corn
sweetness, cocoa, roasted nuts and caramel.
I had hoped for a longer finish, but it has nice warmth and ends with a little
mint.
Smooth Ambler Old Scout 8-year Single Barrel Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Distillery: Sourced from MGP; Barrel 904 bottled
9-16-2014
Mash Bill: 60% corn; 36% rye; 4% malted barley (MGP
high-rye recipe)
Age: 8 years
Proof: 119.8 (barrel proof)
Cost: $47.99
The color is essentially the same
as the other two, which again puzzled me since no water was added to this one
to reduce the proof for bottling. I
literally put all three in front of a light and the differences are miniscule,
if there’s any difference at all. The
nose is very similar to the 7-year, although the higher proof is absolutely noticeable,
and it adds scents of leather and maple syrup to the rye and black pepper spice. The taste is partly an amped-up version of the
7-year, but it’s mostly different because of the higher proof burn. There’s also less of a “pop” of the rye
spice, and more of an even spread of the spice.
The 8-year had a similar finish too, and while the burn from the higher
proof lasted longer, the flavors didn’t necessarily last as long.
Bottom Line:
While my clear favorite was
the 7-year, go out and buy any of these.
If you prefer more oak flavors coupled with more sweetness, then the
10-year will be your choice. But if you
prefer the spice and dryness that comes with MGP’s high-rye Bourbon mash bill,
you’ll prefer the 7-year or the 8-year.
There’s also less oak flavor in those two than I expected, but I didn’t
miss it.
Scores on The
Sipp’n Corn Scale
Smooth Ambler Old
Scout 7-year: 4.0
Smooth Ambler Old Scout 8-year: 3.5
Smooth Ambler Old Scout 10-year: 3.0
The Sipp’n Corn Scale:
1 – Wouldn’t
even accept a free drink of it.
2 – Would
gladly drink it if someone else was buying.
3 – Glad to
include this in my bar.
4 – Excellent
bourbon. Worth the price and I’m sure to
always have it in my bar.
5 – Wow. I’ll search high and low to get another
bottle of this.
Found a bottle of the Yearling 3 & 1/2 year at Liquor Barn Hurstbourne. Thought it was a little raw neat but a couple cubes of ice opened up some very sweet flavors. Not a lot of oak but I guess that's to be expected in a young bourbon. Can't wait to see how this develops over the next few years.
ReplyDeleteExcellent! Smooth Ambler is doing a great job and they're setting the bar pretty high. Like you, I can't wait for the younger Bourbon to get some age. I think we'll be in for a treat.
Delete