It may be an epic endeavor to rate
all ten Four Roses recipes (as a few reviewers have already done before me),
but I’m up for the challenge.
Before jumping in, as a refresher, the
ten total Four Roses recipes are each represented by a four-letter code. The only letters that change in the code are
the second and fourth letters, however, so you can start with “O___S___” where
“O” designates Four Roses in Lawrenceburg, Kentucky and “S” designates that the
Bourbon qualifies as “Straight” whiskey under the federal regulatory scheme.
The second letter will either be
“E” or “B,” which represents one or the other of the two mash bills used by
Four Roses. Unlike many brands who try
to hide their mash bill percentages, Four Roses is upfront, and has disclosed
these percentages:
“E”
= 75% corn, 20% rye, 5% malted barley
“B”
= 60% corn, 35% rye, 5% malted barley
Note that each mash bill has a higher rye content that most
other distilleries who claim to have a “high rye” Bourbon.
The fourth letter in the code
represents one of the five proprietary yeast strains used by Four Roses,
represented by the letters V, K, O, Q or F, which Four Roses describes as
having these characteristics:
“V”
= delicate fruitiness
“K”
= slight spice
“O”
= rich fruitiness
“Q”
= floral essence
“F”
= herbal essence
Some of these are very different from the others, while
some show distinct family traits and are hard to differentiate. Trying each of the ten recipes might let you
identify which mash bill / yeast combination you prefer, or maybe you’ll
conclude that for the money you prefer the standard OBSV at 100 proof.
There’s a bit more deciphering to
do on Four Roses Single barrel bottles, though, whether you buy the standard
OBSV 100 proof, or a private barrel.
I’ve always appreciated Four Roses for giving not just barrel number,
and not just the warehouse location, but also the directional side of the
warehouse (North, South, East or West), the rack number (out of 180 racks per
warehouse), the tier where the barrel lived, and a letter code for depth into
the row (A=1, B=2, etc.). This is a
wealth of information that no other distillery shares.
For example:
·
The barrel of OESK that I helped select in 2013
is labeled “KW-89-1I.”
·
Last year’s Limited Edition Single Barrel (OESF)
is labeled “HW-47-1G.”
·
And my empty barrel at home (which serves as the
platform for most of the pictures that I post) is “ME-9-6N.”
Here’s how to decipher it:
·
My OESK was from the West side of Warehouse K,
in the 89th rack, tier 1, barrel I (9 barrels deep).
·
The 2014 Limited Edition was from the West side
of Warehouse H, in the 47th rack, tier 1, barrel G (7 barrels deep).
·
And my home barrel was from the East side of
Warehouse M, 9th rack, 6th tier, barrel N (14 barrels
deep).
“B”
is for “Bourbon,” but the Warehouse is on the label too.
I haven’t purchased all ten recipes
yet, so for those missing recipes, I’ve simply noted characteristics from
private barrel selections that I’ve attended, and I’ll be updating this post as
I add new bottles. In the meantime, let
me know your favorite Four Roses single barrel recipe in the comments below or
on Twitter.
(1)
OESV
A 9-year, 5-month barrel of OESV was one of my favorites in an October
2013 private barrel selection. It had a
huge nose, great warmth and an outstanding balance of spice and fruit. Nothing was particularly dramatic about it,
but on the other hand, all of its pieces were put together just about
perfectly.
2015 Whiskey Barrel Society GW-39-4V
11 years 2 months
ABV: 62.4%
Cost: $60.00
Notes: This OESV is full of dark wood and spice, but also plum, brown sugar, toffee, and mint. There was nothing “delicate” about this one, despite the reputation for the “V” yeast, but it seemed to me that its rawness was due more to the vigorous heat. The complexity and flavors of Four Roses private barrels are usually not overpowered by a heat, but the high proof along with prickly oak of this private barrel make it a bit of a brute. Even the finish was more of a burn than a swell of flavors.
Score
on The Sipp’n Corn Scale: 3.0
2015 Whiskey Barrel Society GW-39-4V
11 years 2 months
ABV: 62.4%
Cost: $60.00
Notes: This OESV is full of dark wood and spice, but also plum, brown sugar, toffee, and mint. There was nothing “delicate” about this one, despite the reputation for the “V” yeast, but it seemed to me that its rawness was due more to the vigorous heat. The complexity and flavors of Four Roses private barrels are usually not overpowered by a heat, but the high proof along with prickly oak of this private barrel make it a bit of a brute. Even the finish was more of a burn than a swell of flavors.
(2)
OESK
*Used in 2012 for the Limited Edition Single Barrel (12 year) and the 2016 Elliott's Select Limited Edition Single Barrel (14 year).
2013 Yankee Spirits Private Barrel
KW-89-1I
9 year 9 month
ABV: 55.5%
Cost: $60.00
Notes: The pairing of the low rye
mash bill with a spicy yeast resulted in a Bourbon that starts with a fantastic
spicy nose, followed by a balanced taste with big caramel and vanilla balanced
with great cinnamon and rye, and opens up with more candy sweetness and ripe
fruit with a splash of water. The finish
is medium to long with vanilla, oak and fresh-baked cookies.
Score on The Sipp’n Corn Scale: 4.0
As a comparison:
2014 Evergreen Liquors Private
Barrel HE-24-3R
9 year 6 month
ABV: 58.6%
Cost: $49.99
Notes: Dark amber with a great
nose of rye, caramel, vanilla and blackberries.
Rye and cinnamon mark the taste, along with dark fruit, oak and a creamy
feel. Overall dry but great balance, and
fine to sip neat despite the ABV.
Sweeter with ice or a splash of water.
Long, warming finish.
Score on The Sipp’n Corn Scale: 4.0
(3)
OESO
*Used in 2007 for the Limited Edition Single Barrel (13.5 year).
I’ve tried two of these barrels, both aged 11 years, and they were both
very good, most noticeably with a lot more spice and warmth than I might have
predicted from the recipe, and less fruitiness than I expected from the yeast.
(4)
OESQ
*Used in 2009 for the Limited Edition Single Barrel (11 year).
2014 Liquor Barn Private Barrel RN-85-3H
10 year 1 month
ABV: 59.0%
Cost: $53.99
Notes: The floral yeast resulted
in a Bourbon that was way too perfumey for me.
It reminded me of potpourri. I
don’t know if this was the pairing with the low rye mash bill that did this,
whether it was just the yeast coming through, or whether this barrel just
turned out this way, but it’s not drinkable in my opinion. To be fair, others have absolutely raved about
this recipe.
Score on The Sipp’n Corn Scale: 1.0
(5)
OESF
*Used in 2014 for the Limited Edition Single Barrel (11 year).
2014 Limited Edition Single Barrel
HW-47-1G
11 year
ABV: 54.5%
Cost: $99.99
Notes: Wow. Check out the full review here: Four
Roses Limited Edition Single Barrel & Small Batch 2013 vs. 2014
Score on The Sipp’n Corn Scale: 4.5
As a comparison:
2014 Liquor Barn Private Barrel
GE-5-2C
10 year 8 month
ABV: 56.6 %
Cost: $53.99
Notes: Close, but doesn’t touch
the 2014 Limited Edition.
Score on The Sipp’n Corn Scale: 3.5
(6)
OBSV
*Used in 2010 for the Limited Edition Single Barrel (17 year), reported to be Jim Rutledge's favorite of the LE Single Barrels.
This is the standard recipe used by Four Roses for its 100 proof Single
Barrel, pairing the high-rye mash bill with the slightly fruity yeast to create
a really outstanding balanced Bourbon.
This is one of my absolute favorites, and thankfully I can always find
it priced right about $30-$35 in Louisville.
2015 Bourbon Crusaders Private Barrel JE-1-1E
9 years 2 months
ABV: 58.6 %
Cost: $62.00
Notes: Pronounced legs with a standard amber color. Nice intensity with aromas of caramel, brown sugar, dry grasses, and cola. Cola comes through in the taste too, with rich caramel, brown sugar, dark, ripe fruit, with a kick of pepper, cinnamon, and oak. The amount of oak was just right. The finish was medium-long, and it had the gear-shifting transition that I love to find, from warm brown sugar to oak with faint spearmint. This is a remarkable Bourbon.
Score on The Sipp’n Corn Scale: 4.0
2015 Bourbon Crusaders Private Barrel JE-1-1E
9 years 2 months
ABV: 58.6 %
Cost: $62.00
Notes: Pronounced legs with a standard amber color. Nice intensity with aromas of caramel, brown sugar, dry grasses, and cola. Cola comes through in the taste too, with rich caramel, brown sugar, dark, ripe fruit, with a kick of pepper, cinnamon, and oak. The amount of oak was just right. The finish was medium-long, and it had the gear-shifting transition that I love to find, from warm brown sugar to oak with faint spearmint. This is a remarkable Bourbon.
Score on The Sipp’n Corn Scale: 4.0
(7)
OBSK
*Used in 2008 for the Limited Edition Single Barrel (12 year).
*Used in 2013 for the Limited Edition Single Barrel (13 year).
2013 Limited Edition Single Barrel
BS-3-2B
13 year
ABV: 57.7% (115.4 proof)
Cost: $79.99
Notes: I love OBSK, and it’s probably
my favorite along with OESK. I scored
this particular bottle slightly lower in a head-to-head comparison with the
2014 Limited Edition Single Barrel (OESF), but between normal private barrels,
I’ll pick OBSK and OESK every time.
Check out the full review here: Four
Roses Limited Edition Single Barrel & Small Batch 2013 vs. 2014
Score on The Sipp’n Corn Scale: 4.0
(8)
OBSO
Pairing the high rye mash bill with the richly fruity yeast strikes me as
a winning combination, so long as they don’t fight against each other. But when I tried OBSO out of the barrel last
August, I reacted immediately with a “no.”
Instead of rye spice or fruitiness, I got a lot of baking spice and
floral notes.
(9)
OBSQ
*Used in 2011 for the Limited Edition Single Barrel (12 year), reported to be Jim Rutledge's least favorite of the LE Single Barrels.
Our OBSQ barrel was fourth in the lineup at a barrel selection last year,
and it jumped out to an early lead with the best nose and finish to that
point. It had caramel with distinct
candied cinnamon, along with nice oak, and importantly for my preferred profile,
the floral notes from the Q yeast were extremely subtle. It stayed in contention, but ended up being
ranked third or fourth overall.
(10)
OBSF
The “herbal essence” yeast combined with the high rye mash bill was a
little too much for me this past August.
It had a ton of heat, spice and perfume.
I have an unopened bottle from a Bourbon Society private barrel, so I’m
hoping for a better experience.
The Sipp’n Corn Scale:
1 – Wouldn’t
even accept a free drink of it.
2 – Would
gladly drink it if someone else was buying.
3 – Glad to include
this in my bar.
4 – Excellent
bourbon. Worth the price and I’m sure to
always have it in my bar.
5 – Wow. I’ll search high and low to get another
bottle of this.
Nicely done...My favorites are the OESK and OBSK as well,,although have had nice barrel picks from OESO as well...Some like the OBSQ but I think you get a wide variance there..some good, some just not good at all....I just really like 4 roses as a whole..Just seem to gravitate to other open bottles more..not sure why,but as a whole, you just cannot beat this distillery and Jim Rutledge is such the ambassador
ReplyDeleteThanks for the comment! Maybe the Q yeast gives a wider variety. Regardless, I'm with you on Four Roses as a whole and Jim's magic. Cheers!
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