* Updated Nov. 9,
2016, after I learned additional
information about the
genesis of Butchertown Reserve.
Butchertown Reserve is named after
the neighborhood that Copper & Kings calls home, on the eastern edge of
downtown Louisville: Butchertown. Located not too far from the Mellwood
Distillery, Copper & Kings saved a dilapidated
building and has been a key part in the revitalization of Butchertown. Copper & Kings sourced older stocks of brandy
several years ago, mostly from the West Coast, and while continuing to age that
brandy, Copper & Kings has installed three Vendome copper pot stills, and
has been busy distilling brandy (grape and apple) and absinthe.
Butchertown Reserve originated with
former Copper & Kings distiller Alan Bishop (now Master Distiller/Blender
at Spirits of French Lick Distillery). In
the course of creating a special offering for a single tasting event and
auction, Bishop chose three used Heaven Hill barrels and one Kelvin Cooperage
new barrel (#2 char) aging older stocks of sourced brandy, to provide a unique
barrel-influenced Brandy. The blend was
non-chill filtered, contained no coloring or flavoring additives, and was
barreled at 125 proof. It turned out so
well, though, that Copper & Kings launched it as a regular part of its
lineup.
Older Brandy stocks are still used
in Butchertown Reserve and it is still blended pursuant to Bishop’s innovative combination
of four barrels (three once-used Bourbon barrels and one new charred American
Oak barrel from Kelvin Cooperage). It is
also still non-chill filtered, contains no coloring or flavoring additives, and
is barreled at cask strength. Today’s
blends will be slightly different than Bishop’s original blend, but Copper
& Kings uses a solera variation by re-blending a portion of original
batches into the newest batches.
At an event last spring, a Copper
& Kings employee told me that this brandy was finished in Oloroso Sherry
casks, but I couldn’t get confirmation from Copper & Kings Head Distiller
Brandon O’Daniel. Bishop’s original’s
Butchertown Reserve was not finished in that manner, and it’s doubtful that the
current blend is either. I also learned
that while initially Cooper & Kings sourced most of its used Bourbon
barrels from Woodford Reserve, now its barrels are sourced from Willett. Copper & Kings and Willett have a similar
style, so this relationship makes sense.
Brandy:
|
Copper & Kings Butchertown Reserve Casks Brandy
|
Age:
|
NAS (reportedly a variety of ages from 5 to 15, but mostly
8 to 9)
|
ABV:
|
Cask Strength 62% (124 proof)
|
Cooperage:
|
75% aged in used Bourbon barrels
25% aged in new charred American Oak barrels
|
Cost:
|
$60.00
|
Tasting Notes
Appearance:
Silky amber with brilliant gold in the light.
Nose:
Butchertown has robust aromas of caramel, vanilla, and fig,
and fruit. The high proof is evident,
but not in a distracting way. There is
some similarity to a cask-finished Bourbon, but it’s far fruitier than Bourbon,
especially with dark berries and the obvious grape.
Taste:
Definitely brandy, but with many Bourbon characteristics
that I love imparted by the charred oak.
The brandy really pulled the vanilla and caramel flavors from the wood,
but it’s still focused on dark fruit flavors along with some lighter pear
flavors, and then it transitions to spice.
The heat from the high proof is also pretty evident, so I preferred it
with a splash of water, which emphasized the grape and dark fruit flavors, and
a single cube was my favorite way to enjoy it.
Finish:
Some oaky dryness, but still fruit sweetness and silky
through the end, for a warm, medium finish.
Bottom Line
If Brandy proves to be the “next
big thing” (it would have to beat out American Rye Whiskey first), we will all
be hearing more about Copper & Kings because it will be leading the
way. Introducing Brandy that is
reminiscent of whiskey is one way to make headway, and maybe that’s why, while I
haven’t been a fan of most brandy that I’ve tried, Butchertown Brandy changed
my tune. I highly recommend it; even for
those like me, who usually stay laser-focused on Bourbon, it is an excellent
diversion.
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