New charred oak barrels in
Scotland? Maybe this is a sign that
Bourbon is gaining even more worldwide traction. Maybe this is partial recognition that charred
oak barrels hold the secret to whiskey – and even whisky. Or maybe this is
just experimentation by our Scottish forbearers and friends. Whatever it is, I like it.
Talk of Bourbon barrels in Scotland
almost always refers to used Bourbon
barrels – where in their second life they mature Scotch. I’ve wondered how much flavor different
barrels can impart, depending on things like how long they held Bourbon, their char
level, and the type of Bourbon they aged (certainly
a high-rye Four Roses barrel will result in a different Scotch than a
Heaven Hill barrel that aged a wheated Bourbon, right?). And how much flavor
is left in former Bourbon barrels, as an overall component of Scotch, especially
when sometimes the barrels are used up to three times for Scotch?
Now, after aging whisky for 14
years in former Bourbon barrels, Glenfiddich has finished that whisky in new charred American Oak barrels from
Louisville’s Kelvin Cooperage, to “deliver a bourbon heart with the soul of a
single malt.” Related to my interest in
the influence of barrels, I inquired into the specifics of the finishing here. Brian Kinsman, Glenfiddich’s Malt Master,
provided the answers.
I learned from Brian that Glenfiddich
finished this whisky for four months, using a 3.5 char level in the Kelvin
Cooperage barrels. The finishing period
may vary, but typically will be three to four months. Entry ABV at the time of finishing was about
60%, and this percentage does not change materially during finishing.
Glenfiddich used new charred oak
barrels for finishing in order to add intensity and sweetness, along with a
color more associated with Bourbon. Climatic
conditions in Scotland don’t encourage the same degree of interplay between
spirit and wood as in Kentucky, so I expected the contribution of four months
to be subtle. Either way, I envy the
research team that got to play with varying amounts of time for finishing before
reaching the desired profile.
Tasting Notes
Disclaimer: Glenfiddich kindly
sent me a sample
for this review, without any
strings attached.
Thank you.
Whisky:
|
Glenfiddich 14 Year Single Malt Scotch Whisky “Bourbon
Barrel Reserve”
|
Age:
|
14 years in former Bourbon casks, finished for four months
in new charred American Oak
|
ABV:
|
43% ABV (86 proof)
|
Cost:
|
$49.99 MSRP
|
Color:
Bright amber and darker than single malts of this age,
presumably from the time spent in new charred barrels. Straight Bourbon fans will be curious about
the color without additives, but this is Scotch, so we’d better get over it;
Glenfiddich is able to add a small amount of caramel coloring to ensure
consistency between batches.
Nose:
Unmistakably Scotch, but reminiscent of Bourbon at the same
time. There’s some oak, but overall it’s
light and fresh, with vanilla, honey, ripe pear and honey crisp apple, and a
bit of fresh citrus. The nose did not pick
up much caramel aroma from the new barrels, which I thought it might, or perhaps
I’m just used to heavier caramel aromas from Bourbon.
Taste:
First and foremost, this is single malt Scotch; there’s no mistaking
100% malted barley for at least 51% corn plus rye, giving Bourbon sweetness and
spiciness. Glenfiddich 14 Year is silky
and rich, with sweet flavors of vanilla and honey, along with light, ripe fruit
and orange zest. The finishing barrels add
a lovely subtle oakiness and flavor of raw almonds for a great slow-sipping
whisky.
Finish:
The finish is medium in length with lingering warmth, and some
more oak, although predominantly sweet.
Bottom Line
Given the origin of American
distilling and our shared history, it makes sense that Scotch devotees will
want to try Bourbon, and that Bourbon enthusiasts will want to try Scotch. Those who have not yet found the balance
between whiskey and whisky might also have preconceived notions about the
other, like Bourbon is always candy-sweet or all Scotch tastes like that
heavily-peated variety that took you by surprise. Glenfiddich 14 Year bridges that gap
remarkably well.
One reason that
it bridges the gap so well is that Glenfiddich has not tried to create a whisky
that tastes like Bourbon, instead finding a way to remain distinctively Scotch while
capturing some of the influences of Bourbon.
Glenfiddich 14 Year won’t be confused with Bourbon – it’s missing caramel and a robust punch of
spice – so I’m keeping my Bourbon, but I’ll be looking for Glenfiddich 14 and it
will get me to try more Scotch, which perhaps was the goal of this release all
along.
While Glenfiddich 14
Year is a new permanent member of the Glenfiddich line, it is only being
released in the U.S., with plans to keep it here exclusively. Glenfiddich 14 could certainly enjoy a
broader audience, so for those who can get it, I recommend giving it a try,
especially the Bourbon enthusiast who is curious about Scotch.
Glenfiddich 14 certainly has the color of Bourbon...
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