*Updated on September 16, 2014 after adding the review for the 9-year
expression.
Thirteen months ago, Liquor Barn
selected three barrels at The Willett Distillery, and last week they finally
hit the shelves. The length of time from
selection to bottling in Willett’s private barrel program has been the subject
of other blogs, so for my purposes, let’s just see if it was worth the wait.
The three barrels include an 8-year
119.6 proof (gold wax), 9-year 119.6 proof (blue wax), and 9-year 121.8 proof (burgundy
wax). Having three different wax seals
is a nice touch, but I was disappointed to see that Willett moved away
from handwritten labels. While using the
exact same label from previous Family Estate bottlings, this time the age,
barrel number, ABV and proof are computer-printed. Sometimes the printer was not exactly lined
up with the blanks and the toner looked like it could have used replacing. Whoever made this presumably time-saving call
at Willett might re-think appearances and attention to detail.
As with all current offerings from
Willett (whether hard-to-find Family Estate bottles, the ubiquitous Pot Still
Reserve variety, or any of the numerous brands bottled by Willett), Willett did
not distill this bourbon. Still, Willett
knows how to select and age barrels, as they’ve proven time and time again.
Bourbon:
|
Willett Family Estate Single Barrel
|
Willett Family Estate Single Barrel
|
(Barrel No. 106)
|
(Barrel No. 196)
|
|
Age:
|
8 years
|
9 years
|
Proof:
|
119.6 proof
|
119.6 proof
|
Cost:
|
$74.99
|
$84.99
|
Distillery:
|
Not disclosed, but bottled at
The Willett Distillery, in Bardstown, Kentucky, which is an assumed name
adopted by Kentucky Bourbon Distillers, Ltd in 2005. The Willett Distilling Company was
originally incorporated in September 1936.
|
Tasting Notes
Willett Family Estate 8-year
Color: Bright brown. The light plays really well with this one.
Nose: Cracked corn
and straw, some corn sweetness, subtle spice, a bit of clove and a little
smoky. The nose is very pleasant. While ethanol is certainly noticeable, the
nose masks true ABV. After some
aeration, the only difference is the addition of slight cocoa notes.
|
Willett Family Estate 9-year
Color: A very similar bright amber-brown.
Nose: Definitely a
sweeter nose than the 8-year. It’s
heavy on the caramel and toffee, and combines that candy sweetness with roasted
nuts, toast and oak. A little air also
helps soften the ABV on the nose.
|
Taste: Nice bite
revealing that it’s a higher-proof bourbon, but still masking that it’s nearly
60% ABV (I would have guessed about 100 proof). It has a great balance of brown sugar with
grains and oak, pepper spice, and some slight bitterness of espresso; really
fantastic flavors for an overall dry taste.
After trying this neat, you’ll need a splash of water or ice, which regulates
the heat and brings out a little more sweetness. A few ice cubes is probably my favorite way
to drink this one.
|
Taste: Consistent
with the nose, the taste starts with candy bar sweetness, but it has
incredible balance with a smokiness that wasn’t present in the nose, along
with black pepper and oak. As with the
8-year (and as with most – but not all
– barrel proof Bourbon) after trying this neat, try it with a single large
ice cube and a splash of water. You
may be surprised at how new flavors open up.
However, this 9-year was better neat than the 8-year.
|
Finish: The finish
was medium in length with great warmth, and overall somewhat subtle in its
flavors.
|
Finish: The finish
may have been a little shorter than the 8-year, but maybe it just seemed that
way because of its sweetness.
|
Bottom Line
These Bourbons are fantastic,
with great, classic dry profile, and no downside on the taste. Finding a Family Estate bottle is going to be
a little difficult, but keep looking.
And if you know that your favorite store selected a barrel some time
ago, be patient; it’s sure to be worth the wait. Of course, because this is a private
selection single barrel, Family Estate bottles that you find anywhere other than
Barrel No. 106 bottled for Liquor Barn will be different, but I’ve never gone
wrong with Willett private selection.
Of course, the price is steep
for anyone except diehard bourbon fans or those looking for a special bottle as
a gift. These particular private barrels
are great but they aren’t magic, so
if you’re new to bourbon, I’d spend your $75 or $85 on one bottle each of
Weller 12 ($24.99 last purchase), Elmer T. Lee ($28.99 last purchase) and Four
Roses Yellow Label ($19.99 last purchase).
Those three combined will cost roughly the same amount, and you’ll
increase my chances of finding another bottle of Willett Family Estate.
Score on The Sipp’n Corn Scale:
Willett Family Estate 8-year: 4.0
Willett Family Estate 9-year: 4.0
The Sipp’n Corn Scale:
1 – Wouldn’t
even accept a free drink of it.
2 – Would
gladly drink it if someone else was buying.
3 – Glad to
include this in my bar.
4 – Excellent
bourbon. Worth the price and I’m sure to
always have it in my bar.
5 – Wow. I’ll search high and low to get another
bottle of this.
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