The Willett Distillery has
gradually become a favorite of Bourbon enthusiasts, even creating some genuine
fan boys of the distillery and Drew Kulsveen.
Unfortunately, the demand from Bourbon enthusiasts played right in to
the existing secondary market where flippers (i.e., people who buy purely to
profit on an immediate resale) buy as much Willett Family Estate as possible
and then list it online for 2 or 3 times an already high retail price. Willett has even had to take steps to counter
this practice, such as limiting the number of bottles it releases at any given
time.
Luckily, my timing was perfect at
the Gift Shop on several occasions, and I was able to buy multiple bottles from
two different 22-year old barrels, both with wheat as the secondary grain. I tend to think that wheated Bourbons often take
extra aging better, so I was very excited for these purchases, despite the
retail price. Were they worth it?
Details
Willett Family Estate
Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Distillery: Undisclosed
Age: 22 years
Proof: 139.2 proof
Cost: $315.00 (gift shop)
Barrel No.: C14D
Total Bottles: 108
Willett Family Estate
Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Distillery: Undisclosed
Age: 22 years
Proof: 141.8 proof
Cost: $315.00 (gift shop)
Barrel No.: C17D
Total Bottles: 112
Tasting
Notes
Color:
Both are age-appropriately dark, and for both that means
silky brown with rich reddish hues. C17D
might be slightly darker, but they’re essentially the same color.
Nose:
I could sit down and smell C14D all day long; it’s fantastic. The high ABV is not distracting in the
slightest, so you can enjoy polished wood, leather, old barn, dark chocolate,
and dark plums. It’s definitely oaky,
but there’s also a rich sweetness (instead of candy sweetness, think about that
triple-chocolate desert that is so rich you have to share it).
C17D has more heat evident in the nose; don’t inhale
aggressively with this one. The nose has
a sharper oakiness, so instead of polished wood and old barn, it’s more of a
peppery oak. It’s also a bit sweeter,
but otherwise, it’s very similar to C14D.
Taste:
In previous Bourbons, I’ve certainly tasted flavors of
cocoa, dark chocolate, and milk chocolate.
But with C14D, I was in for a surprise of an unmistakable specific cocoa
flavor: tootsie rolls. It’s really
incredible. The tootsie roll flavor,
along with other rich sweetness, adds a nice balance to the otherwise dominant
oaky flavors. There’s no discernable
cherry (which I get in another older wheated Bourbon that shall remain
nameless). Water opens it nicely to lush
caramel, buttery toffee, and increases the creaminess, although leather and oak
are still the backbone. Even neat, C14D
is warm but not hot, never revealing that it’s 139.2 proof. Still, after trying C14D neat, you need drink
it with a splash or two of water, or better yet, a single large ice cube or ball
in order to experience its progression with slow melt.
C17D doesn’t have as strong of cocoa notes when drank neat,
but water brings out fantastic dark chocolate and rich salted caramel. C17D also has plenty of oak, and even less
dark fruit. The oak reminds me of
leather and an old library (mahogany walls and leather-bound books on hardwood
shelves). Additionally, whereas C14D
masks its high ABV, the very slightly higher ABV of C17D slaps you in the face. Proof this high is bound to make itself
known, but it’s magical when it sooths instead of hits. Air and adding a splash of water to C17D really
helps tame the beast, so like C14D, take the proof down with water or ice, and
be patient after a pour.
While oak characteristics should be expected in any
extra-aged Bourbon, it’s rare after all these years to not have a
one-dimensional “oak bomb” that causes a major drying pucker. Those old barrels usually need the life
filtered out of them before they can be concealed in a large batch. So it’s unique here for Willett to have
several barrels offered as non-chill filtered barrel strength single barrels;
there’s absolutely no hiding here.
Finish:
C14D has a fantastic, long oaky, dry finish, with some nice
remnants of the tootsie rolls and dark fruit.
Surprisingly, the finish seemed to last longer with a few drops of water. C17D was long in a slightly different way, leaving
a lasting impression of heat, while still delivering robust flavor (again, especially
oak, but not overbearing). A little
water cut the oakiness of the finish in both, and helped bring out black tea,
cinnamon, caramel apples, and dark chocolate, so again, take the proof down.
Bottom
Line
A valid question here is “why review
bottles that most people are unlikely to ever be able to try?” As opposed to many of my reviews, which in
the best case scenario might actually help people decide to try a new Bourbon,
or might help people choose between two similarly-priced Bourbons, I hope that
my occasional reviews of hard or impossible to find Bourbons can help narrow
the hunt for some people, help others decide if they’re really tempted to spend
this kind of time or money, or at least give credit where credit is due.
Additionally, tasting single barrels is
fascinating to me. I’ve had private
barrels that were from the same distillation run and were aged literally right
next to each other for the same amount of time, that turned out pretty
different. And now with Willett, some
lucky people have been able to get C14D, C16D, C17D, and C18D, which have all
been 22-year wheated Single Barrel Bourbons with typical similarities and
differences.
Buying and reviewing these types of
Bourbons reminded me of another lesson: price
and hype won’t always give me a Bourbon that I subjectively believe was worth
the cost. That’s C17D for me; it’s a
fantastic Bourbon that I’m excited to have, and which I don’t have any regrets
for purchasing, but I would not pay $315 for a second bottle, much less the $650
I’ve seen demanded on the secondary market.
At north of $300, both C14D and C17D should get dinged on any “value”
analysis, but these both have so much more character and depth when compared to
many of the $100+ limited releases over the past few years, so it starts
getting harder to argue with Willett’s pricing.
For me and my money, I expect any
Bourbon over $100 to absolutely blow my socks off, and that’s what C14D did for
me. I know that all 108 bottles are long
gone and that I’ll never have the chance to stock up, but this experience will
keep me looking for the next outstanding Bourbon. Even if I’m not quite as captivated with
other single barrels along the way, I know that my perfect Bourbon is out
there, so I’ll keep trying. Visit the
Willett Gift Shop and who knows, maybe Drew will have just set out a few bottles
of magic.
Scores on The
Sipp’n Corn Scale
Willett 22-year C14D: 4.5
Willett 22-year C17D: 4.0
The Sipp’n Corn Scale:
1 – Wouldn’t
even accept a free drink of it.
2 – Would
gladly drink it if someone else was buying.
3 – Glad to
include this in my bar.
4 – Excellent Bourbon
and even worth its high price.
5 – Wow. I’ll search high and low to get another
bottle of this.
And your C14D has a math error on the label. Kinda cool
ReplyDelete69.6 x 2 = 139.2, right?
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